The local Dungeness crab season, usually the highlight of the year for seafood lovers and an essential part of holiday traditions, has gotten off to a rocky start. A low supply has caused some local fishers to abandon their fishing gear, leading to rumors that it could be a very short season. But sellers say there should be plenty of the crustaceans around for months to come; they’re just more expensive than usual.
There are a few reasons for the limited supply. A series of delays meant that local boats didn’t go out until earlier this month, missing the major winter holidays other than next month’s Lunar New Year. When they did go fishing, the amount of Dungeness crabs in California waters has been low, as part of a natural cycle. That’s caused some of the larger boats to leave the region and some smaller local boats to drop out of the market. But with the local season due to last through at least March and possibly longer, those who sell crab say they aren’t concerned it will run out anytime soon.
“I think people will still get crabs, it’s just that prices are high,” said Chris Lam, president and CEO of Pucci Foods, a seafood supplier to Bay Area markets like Farmer Joe’s in Oakland and Foods Co., who said the amount of crab on the market is about one-third of usual.
Lam explained another reason for the low supply is that the market is usually augmented by crab from Washington State, but the season there has been delayed by issues with domoic acid, a neurotoxin that has caused problems in previous years in California, though there are no signs of it in local waters this year.
But, Lam pointed out, live Dungeness crab costs around $8 to $10 per pound at most retail markets, which is usually a better deal than cooked crab and still quite a bit less than live lobster, for example.
“It’s relatively still reasonable,” he said.
Still, some local fishers say they still aren’t making enough given the cost of taking a fishing trip, including bait, fuel, insurance and labor costs, when the supply is so low. Scott Edson of the fishing vessel Genesis in Bodega Bay said he’s catching about one to three crabs in each of his 250 pots, instead of 10 or even 20 he would get in a good year.
“The numbers still don’t crunch out right,” he said while fishing north of Point Reyes on Wednesday. “The crew make nothing. Insurance is super expensive. You’re working for very, very little.”
Edson only plans to fish through the Lunar New Year holiday, another popular time for crab, with the hope that dock prices will go up.
Smaller companies that deal more directly with fishing boats aren’t concerned about running out. Joe Conte at Water2Table at Pier 45 in San Francisco, who supplies local seafood for the restaurant industry and now home cooks, said he plans to have crab for many months.
In Bodega Bay, Shane Lucas of Fishetarian Fish Market, who grew up there in a local fishing family, said it helps that there’s a receiving dock right behind his business. Though some fishers he know aren’t thinking of stopping soon, there’s also a bright spot to the smaller amount of crab: The trucks that normally come in and haul huge shipments of crab down to Los Angeles haven’t been around as usual, leaving more for Bay Area customers.
“There’s always going to be crab for the local markets,” Lucas said.
Where to Buy Crab
HOME DELIVERY
Prices may change and don’t include delivery fees; some companies only deliver on specific days.
Four Star Seafood
Live crab $22.50 each; cooked $24 each. (Also owns Billingsgate Market, a seafood counter in Noe Valley.)
https://www.fourstarseafood.com/
Feastin
Cooked fresh crab for around $7.50 a pound on specific days
Ocean2Table
Cooked and cleaned crab for $33 in San Mateo and Santa Clara counties.
https://www.getocean2table.com/buy-shares
One Ocean Seafood
Cleaned and cracked crab for $32 each
https://shop.oneoceanseafood.com
Water2Table
Live crab $24 each or $14 for “cull” crab (those missing legs).
https://water2table.localfoodmarketplace.com
IN-STORE AND BOAT SALES
Prices may change.
Alioto-Lazio Fish Co.
Live and cooked crab $9.99 per pound.
440 Jefferson St., S.F.; (415) 673-5868. Shipping also available at http://crabonline.com
Bi-Rite Markets
Cooked crab $14.99 a pound.
3639 18th St., S.F.; (415) 241-9760. Divisadero: 550 Divisadero St., S.F.; (415) 551-7900. https://biritemarket.com
Crystal Springs Fish & Poultry
Cooked crab $14.99 a pound.
116 De Anza Blvd., San Mateo; (650) 212-7921. www.crystalspringsfishandpoultry.com
Fishetarian Seafood
Live and cooked crab $9.99 per pound.
599 Hwy. 1, Bodega Bay. (707) 504-0164. https://fishetarianfishmarket.com
Fresh Meat and Seafood
Live crab $9.99 per pound.
2704 Mission St., S.F. (415) 550-8044. https://www.freshmeatseafood.com/
Hog Island Oyster Co.
Price of cooked crab varies by location; for home delivery, two live crabs (about 2 pounds each) cost $68.75.
Order ahead to pick up at stores in Larkspur and Napa or for home delivery at https://hogislandoysters.com.
Monterey Fish Market
Live crab $11.99 per pound, $12.99 for cooked.
1582 Hopkins St., Berkeley; (510) 525-5600. www.montereyfish.com
New England Lobster Market
Live crab $8.95 per pound, $10.95 for cooked.
824 Cowan Road, Burlingame; (650) 443-1543. In-store pickup or home devliery: www.newenglandlobster.net
Pillar Point Harbor
Many fishermen sell their fish off the boat; price varies. Call (650) 726-8724 or download the fishline app for updates.
1 Johnson Pier, Half Moon Bay
Seafood Center
Live crab $9.49 for crabs that weigh 1½ to 1¾ pounds.
831 Clement St., S.F.; (415) 752-3496
Tokyo Fish Market
Live crab $9.95 per pound; cooked expected Thursday or Friday.
1220 San Pablo Ave., Berkeley; (510) 524-7243. www.tokyofish.net
Tara Duggan is The San Francisco Chronicle’s assistant food editor. Email: tduggan@sfchronicle.com Twitter: @taraduggan
The Link LonkJanuary 21, 2021 at 04:59AM
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Dungeness crab is at one-third of its usual supply in the Bay Area. Here’s which stores still have it - San Francisco Chronicle
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