Don’t get me wrong, I like lobster rolls. They’re great, especially if you're traveling along the craggy New England coastline and want to eat something that can only be enjoyed in its purest form, with fishing boats on the horizon and weathered old men drinking Narragansetts along the bay.
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But, as far as everywhere else goes, I feel like their lesser-known (and far less pricey) brethren, the shrimp roll, is almost always a better bet.
At least that’s what I thought as I bit into the shrimp roll at Libby’s Southern Comfort in Covington yesterday. Carefully consuming it in a parking lot beneath the twin spires of Mother of God Roman Catholic Church a few blocks away, the sweet, fresh flavors of the sandwich felt far more summery than the weather would have you guess. Yes, you can eat in the dining room at Libby's, but I went with takeout this time, something I've gotten very good at lately.
[ Fish Fry-day! Find a fish fry near you in the Cincinnati area this week ]
The pickled shrimp, chopped into lobster-roll-like hunks, was lightly dressed with Old Bay-seasoned mayonnaise (cue the salivary glands) and topped with microgreens, and a scattering of crushed South Carolina barbecue-flavored Grippo's. The Grippo's seemed odd at first; a nice, but perhaps unnecessary, nod to our local potato chip obsession. But I quickly realized they had an actual job to do, adding a familiar sweetness and texture that gave the shrimp roll a character all its own.
Those ingredients are all tucked into a Cubano roll from Sixteen Bricks, giving it some added local flavor. I know my predecessor Polly Campbell was a big fan of Libby’s fried chicken. And she was right. They serve some of the best in the region. But this is Lent, and I’m sticking to the fish as much as I can. And eating it in a parking lot, on a cold, cloudy afternoon in Covington, this sandwich is no sacrifice at all.
Libby’s Southern Comfort, 35 W. Eighth St., Covington, 859-261-3106, libbyssoutherncomfort.com.
More fish sammies of the week:
🐟: The cod sandwich at Arthur's
🐟: The tuna confit sandwich at Fausto
🐟: New England Reuben at Grove Park Grille
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The Link LonkMarch 19, 2021 at 09:56AM
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Fish sandwich of the week goes to this shrimp roll from Libby's in Covington - The Cincinnati Enquirer
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