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Tuesday, December 29, 2020

Three seafood soups perfect for Dungeness crab - Santa Rosa Press Democrat

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Simmer gently for 5 minutes.

Use tongs to remove and discard the star anise.

Add the parsley, bread and crab; remove from the heat; cover and let rest 5 minutes.

Taste, correct for salt and pepper, ladle into soup plates and enjoy right away.

This classic San Francisco dish was created by Italian fishermen in the 1800s, using whatever fish was leftover after they’d sold their catch. Eventually, Dungeness crab became an essential ingredient. Some versions are very thick, more stewlike than souplike, with a strong fishy taste. This is a lighter version, in both texture and taste.

Cioppino

Serves 4 to 8

2 whole Dungeness crabs, cooked and cleaned

¼ cup olive oil

1 yellow onion, peeled and cut into small dice

1 celery stalk, minced

6 garlic cloves, peeled and minced

Kosher salt

Black pepper in a mill

¾ cup chopped fresh Italian parsley

1 bay leaf

1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano

1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme

¾ teaspoon dried red pepper flakes

3½ cups shellfish stock (see recipe, above)

½ cup dry red wine

1 28-ounce can diced tomatoes with their juice

2 pounds clams or cockles in their shells, rinsed

2 pounds fresh black mussels, rinsed

1 lemon, cut into wedges

Hot garlic bread (see Note below)

Pick the crab meat from its shells, save the shells, put the crabmeat into a bowl, cover and refrigerate.

Pour the olive oil into a large, heavy soup pot set over medium-low heat; add the onions and celery and sauté until soft and fragrant, about 12 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté 2 minutes more. Season generously with salt and black pepper.

Add half the parsley along with the bay leaf, oregano, thyme, pepper flakes, the shellfish stock, red wine and tomatoes. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to very low and simmer gently for 15 minutes. Taste and correct the seasoning.

Add the clams or cockles and the mussels to the pot; cover and simmer 5 minutes. Examine the shellfish and discard those that have not opened. Add the crab, cover, remove from the heat and let rest for 10 minutes.

Use tongs to remove and discard the bay leaf.

Divide the seafood among large soup plates or pasta bowls. Ladle broth over each portion, scatter the remaining parsley on top and enjoy right away, with lemon wedges and hot bread alongside.

There’s something old-school, something vintage, about a bisque. This one’s roots are in Sausalito in the 1970s, at the legendary Soupçon, the first restaurant on Caledonia Street. A friend enjoyed it there every Thursday evening for several years and eventually coaxed the recipe out of the chef.

Crab Tomato Bisque

Serves 3 to 4

3 tablespoons butter

1 small yellow onion, cut into small dice

1 small celery rib, cut into small dice

Kosher salt

½ cup dry white wine

1 bay leaf

1 tablespoon minced fresh Italian parsley

½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper, preferably white

3 cups shellfish stock, fish fumet or homemade chicken stock

1 14-ounce can diced tomatoes

¼ cup Madeira, such as Rainwater

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon sugar, optional

Cooked and picked meat from 1 large or 2 medium Dungeness crabs

¾ heavy cream

½ cup half-and-half, plus more as needed

2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley or snipped chives

Hot sourdough hearth bread

Put the butter into a large saucepan set over medium heat, add the onion and celery and sauté until soft and fragrant, about 12 minutes; do not let the vegetables brown. Season with salt, increase the heat to high, add the wine and cook until it is almost completely reduced.

Add the bay leaf, parsley, pepper, stock, tomatoes, Madeira and lemon juice and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover and simmer for 20 minutes.

Use tongs to remove and discard the bay leaf. For a smooth soup, purée with an immersion blender.

Taste the bisque and, if it seems a bit flat, add the sugar. Add the crab, cream, half-and-half and parsley or chives and heat through but do not let it reach a boil. Taste again, correct for salt and pepper and thin with a little more half-and-half if it’s too thick for your taste.

Ladle into soup plates or bowls and enjoy right away, with the hot bread alongside.

Michele Anna Jordan is the author of 24 books to date, including “San Francisco Seafood.” Email her at michele@micheleannajordan.com

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December 30, 2020 at 03:26AM
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Three seafood soups perfect for Dungeness crab - Santa Rosa Press Democrat

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